Krakow and Auschwitz

June 22nd—The kids and I said “bye” to Mike around 8:30 this morning. He was heading to Auschwitz for the day. The kids and I got dressed and headed out of the apartment around 10:00. No, we didn’t know exactly what we were doing, but we were going to attempt it. We ventured out into the rain and walked to the tram stop. Luckily, we had been using public transportation for a long time now and they all kind of work the same way. We hopped on the tram and headed to the Main Market Square. Our first stop inside the square was at Hard Rock Café. The restaurant was not open yet, but the rock shop was, so I purchased a pin and off we went. We walked through the Cloth Hall where many Polish souvenirs are sold. There was a lot of amber jewelry, chess sets, and wood carvings. The kids put up with shopping for about as long as they could handle before they started asking for lunch. So, we left the Cloth Hall and went to eat at Polskie Smaki (“Polish Flavors”). It was a self-service cafeteria, a dressed up milk bar. Poland is known for its milk bars (a hold over from the communist days) which are an incredibly cheap way to get a good meal. We were able to walk up to the counter and point at what we wanted. It’s always good when you can see the food before eating it. The kids and I really enjoyed our food and busing our own table. That’s another part that makes it so cheap is that you clear off your table when finished eating. It’s a fun experience. After eating lunch, we walked back by the Cloth Hall and into Church of St. Adalbert. This is the oldest church in Krakow and the smallest church we’ve seen so far. When we walked out of the church, it was pouring down rain so I decided that we needed to head back to the apartment. We walked back toward the tram station, but before getting on the tram both kids had to go to the bathroom in the pouring down rain. I had to locate a water closet in the…pouring down rain. Anyway, we found one real close to the tram stop and took care of business. Then, caught the next tram back to our apartment. We got back to the apartment in time for a nap. Austin went right to sleep and slept a good while. I got caught up on the blog and Abby watched a movie. After Austin got up from his name, we went looking for a snack, specifically ice cream. Luckily, right down the street from our apartment was an awesome bakery that even had ice cream. By the time we got back to the apartment, we didn’t have to wait long before Mike returned from Auschwitz and it was time for dinner. So, we all went to a restaurant that was very small and served pierogis. Pierogis are a ravioli-like dumpling that comes with various fillings. The best pierogi was mine which was Mexican (I got so excited when I saw Mexican on the menu) that had chicken and red beans in it. It was spicy and good! It had started raining again while we were at dinner, so we all ran back to the apartment to get ready for bed.


Auschwitz -I got up this morning and left Amy and the kiddos at the apartment as I set off for a trip to Auschwitz. They had given me the day trip for my Father's Day gift....what a powerful gift it would be. When I left the apartment it was raining and so I walked to the tram stop to catch a tram to the train/bus station. I could not determine which line to take, but I saw a lady with a suitcase and decided my odds were good that she would be going to the train/bus station. I hoped on the tram she did and luckily arrived at the station after just a few stops. I then had to navigate my way to the bus station. It was a little confusing to find, but I finally found the station and there was a bus that left 20 minutes later. I bought a ticket and off I went. It was about a 75 minute bus ride through the Poland country side to get to Oswiecim, the home of Auschwitz. When we arrived, it was still lightly raining. For some reason, it just felt right that it was cool, cloudy and rainy. I went into the ticket office and bought a ticket for an English guided tour. It was a 3.5 hour tour and I decided this would be the best way to see and experience Auschwitz. The name Auschwitz actually refers to a series of camps. The ticket office was located at Auschwitz I and this is where our tour started. This was the first Auschwitz camp and was initially used as a base for the Polish army before WWII. You enter through the notorious gate with the German phrase Arbeit Macht Frei ("Work Sets You Free"). Honestly, if you didn't know where you were, you would find this to be a nice, peaceful camp. It has nice brick barracks and tree lined streets. However, after just a few moments, you quickly are reminded of the incredible events that occurred. An average of 14,000 "prisoners" were kept in the barracks, which have now been turned into National Memorials and museum exhibits. We walked through a couple of different barracks that explored different issues such as: everyday life, evidence of crimes, camp conditions and extermination. I don't have to explain how difficult many of these rooms were, faced with pictures of emancipated men, women and children and the articles they left behind. We then explored the "death block". This was where those that were held on criminal charges were kept and tortured before their death. Finally, we visited the crematorium and the "shower rooms" where the mass executions occurred. From here we took a short bus ride to Auschwitz II - Birkenau. When the original Auschwitz got to be too small, they began this second camp in some nearby farm fields. It was originally planned to hold 200,000 people, but held only 100,000 at it's peak. Most of the barracks here were built of wood by fellow prisoners at Auschwitz. These were either destroyed by the Nazi's or later used for building materials by the Germans, so you primarily see a large field, with the brick foundations and chimney's remaining. The area seems to go on forever and it is unbelievable to see how large this camp is (and planned to be even larger). There are train tracks that lead straight into the main building and through the camp to the back where the 4 large crematoriums were built. When the trains entered, people were separated at the dividing platform. If you were directed to the right, you were immediately sent to the "showers" and death. If you were directed to the left, you would live a little longer (although working yourself to death). There were a few barracks left standing that we entered. It provides some insight into the horrible conditions those who were not immediately murdered endured. As it was cool and raining, I kept trying to imagine how bad it would have been for those living there that had no running water or heat, and slept 4 or 5 to a bunk with no blankets or pillows. Our tour ended at the back of the camp where the 4 crematoriums had originally stood and where now stands a memorial. I then walked the 1KM or so back along the train tracks reflecting on the horror of this place. As a father, obviously the most difficult part to see and comprehend was the treatment of the children. While Auschwitz may not make many people's list of "places to visit", or seem like a desirable Father's Day gift, it will definitely remain as one of my most remembered.